Walter Bonatti v. Nino Giglio and the 1954 Italian K2 expedition / 1960s
The dispute became openly vicious in 1964, when journalist Nino Giglio published allegations based on interviews with Compagnoni and Lacedelli claiming that Bonatti had secretly tried to beat the designated summit climbers to K2’s top. The articles accused him of persuading Mahdi to join the supposed scheme, using up oxygen intended for Camp IX, refusing assistance from the climbers above, and abandoning Mahdi during the freezing bivouac. One version even quoted expedition liaison officer Mohammad Ata-Ullah as supporting the accusations. Bonatti sued for defamation and won in 1966. The court found the central theory implausible because Bonatti, Abram, and Mahdi had been carrying oxygen cylinders but lacked the masks and valves needed to use them; moreover, Mahdi had reached the lower camp slightly before Bonatti, contradicting the claim that he had been abandoned. Despite the verdict, Bonatti said Italian mountaineering circles continued to treat him as a liar and troublemaker. The dispute also produced a string of legal battles: Desio was sued after falsely accusing an expedition photographer of taking film, the Club Alpino Italiano recovered expedition funds from him, and Compagnoni lost a 1958 attempt to claim part of the profits from the popular film Italia K2. Bonatti’s role was initially omitted from that film before protests forced an acknowledgment of the oxygen carry and bivouac.
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