1954 Italian K2 Expedition; Walter Bonatti, Achille Compagnoni, Lino Lacedelli, Ardito Desio, and Amir Mahdi / 1950s
The first ascent of K2 on 31 July 1954 was never seriously disputed: Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli reached the 8,611-metre summit for Italy. The scandal concerned the extraordinary struggle over who had made that ascent possible and whether expedition leader Ardito Desio’s official account concealed a betrayal high on the mountain. Walter Bonatti and Pakistani porter Amir Mahdi carried vital oxygen cylinders toward the summit party on 30 July, but the final camp had been placed higher and farther away than Bonatti believed had been agreed. Unable to locate it before darkness, the pair spent the night without a tent or sleeping bags in an emergency bivouac around 8,100 metres. Mahdi suffered severe frostbite, while Bonatti maintained that the summit climbers had effectively stranded them and then minimized their contribution. Desio’s account portrayed the episode very differently, suggesting that Bonatti had failed to reach Camp IX and that the oxygen unexpectedly ran out during Compagnoni and Lacedelli’s ascent. Bonatti later argued that the oxygen could not have been exhausted as early as claimed, and a 1993 photograph discovered by Australian investigator Robert Marshall appeared to show Compagnoni still wearing his oxygen mask on the summit, intensifying suspicions that the official narrative was false.
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